Fashion may seem far removed from the horrors of war, but global conflict has always left an undeniable imprint on what we wear. The First and Second World Wars didn’t just change geopolitics—they transformed the fashion industry. From functionality to symbolism, the garments born from these eras tell stories of resilience, reinvention, and radical change. What emerged from the rubble were new silhouettes, styles, and fabrics that reshaped modern wardrobes across the globe.
World War I (1914–1918): The Rise of Practicality and Androgyny
Before WWI, fashion—especially for women—was ornate, heavily structured, and rooted in Edwardian ideals. Corsets, petticoats, and long, layered skirts were standard. But as millions of men went to war, women filled labor shortages in factories, transport, and agriculture. With this shift in societal roles came a shift in clothing.
Key Fashion Changes During WWI:
1. The Simplification of Women’s Clothing
As women entered the workforce, their clothing had to adapt. Gone were the restrictive corsets and floor-length skirts. In their place came:
Loose blouses and straight skirts
Shorter hemlines—rising from floor-length to ankle and mid-calf
Simpler cuts and muted colors
This was not just about aesthetics. Clothing became utilitarian, prioritizing ease of movement and efficiency. The iconic “war crinoline,” a wide skirt that allowed women to move freely while still maintaining modesty, gained popularity in the early war years.
2. Trench Coats
One of the most iconic garments born out of WWI was the trench coat. Originally designed for British officers, trench coats were:
Water-resistant
Double-breasted with shoulder epaulets
Made of gabardine, a tightly woven wool or cotton
After the war, returning soldiers continued to wear their trench coats in civilian life, and designers adapted them for the general public. They remain a timeless fashion staple today.
3. Military Detailing
Epaulets, belts, structured shoulders, and khaki fabrics—directly lifted from military uniforms—made their way into both men’s and women’s wear. The aesthetic of military chic was born.
4. The Bob and the Birth of Modern Women’s Style
Though not a garment, the bob haircut signified a new era of freedom for women. It paired well with the looser, more androgynous fashion and signaled the early rumblings of the Roaring Twenties flapper style that followed the war.
Interwar Years: Transition and Glamour
The 1920s and 1930s were marked by a mix of liberation and recession. While the 1920s saw a fashion boom—flappers, drop-waist dresses, and Art Deco glamour—the 1930s brought the Great Depression, which once again necessitated frugal fashion choices.
However, the economic downturn also encouraged creativity: women began altering older clothes, repurposing fabrics, and making their own garments—a trend that would only deepen during WWII.
World War II (1939–1945): Utility, Uniformity, and Ingenuity
While WWI loosened fashion, WWII defined it. The fashion industry was impacted globally by fabric rationing, factory conversions for war production, and ideological controls over aesthetics. Designers, civilians, and even governments responded with innovation and resilience.
Key Fashion Developments During WWII:
1. Utility Clothing
In countries like Britain and the U.S., rationing systems controlled how much fabric and materials citizens could use. The British government introduced the Utility Scheme in 1941, leading to:
Standardized garments known as Utility clothing
Restrictions on fabric use: no pleats, minimal buttons, limited hemlines
Clothing designed by approved fashion houses but regulated by the Board of Trade
These pieces emphasized function, durability, and cost-efficiency. Though they were plain, Utility fashion also encouraged streamlined, elegant silhouettes that became templates for post-war style.
2. Victory Suits and Skirt Suits
Women’s two-piece suits—often with padded shoulders, nipped waists, and A-line skirts—became popular. Known as “Victory suits” in the U.S., these outfits were:
Practical for work and travel
Seen as patriotic and responsible
Easily mix-and-matchable
Their sharp tailoring mirrored military aesthetics but emphasized female strength and professionalism—qualities crucial during wartime.
3. Trousers for Women
WWII solidified women wearing trousers as both acceptable and practical. Whether working in munitions factories or on farms, pants were necessary for safety and function.
This trend, once controversial, became normalized. Post-war, it paved the way for future fashion movements that celebrated gender fluidity and functionality.
4. The “Make Do and Mend” Movement
Wartime scarcity led to DIY fashion. Civilians were encouraged to:
Repair or repurpose old clothing
Use alternative materials (e.g., curtains, feed sacks)
Knit and sew at home
This gave rise to custom, patchwork aesthetics and sparked the idea of sustainable fashion long before it became a global concern.
5. Lingerie and Nylon Shortages
Nylon—originally used in stockings—was redirected for parachutes and war equipment. Women resorted to:
Cotton stockings
Leg makeup to mimic hosiery (sometimes with drawn-on seams)
This shortage reflected how deeply war reached into personal, everyday fashion.
6. War-Inspired Accessories
Because fabric was rationed, accessories became more important than ever. Women expressed individuality with:
Hats and headscarves
Victory brooches and pins
Bold red lipstick (seen as patriotic, especially in the U.S.)
Post-War Fashion: From Restriction to Opulence
After WWII ended, a collective hunger for beauty, luxury, and femininity surged. The fashion industry responded with drama.
The New Look (1947)
Christian Dior launched his revolutionary "New Look":
Cinched waists
Full, voluminous skirts
Soft shoulders and ultra-femininity
This was a direct response to the years of fabric limitation. It celebrated excess and glamour, bringing romance back into fashion. However, it was also controversial—some women criticized it as a regression from the wartime empowerment of pants and streamlined suits.
Long-Term Impacts of the Wars on Fashion
Both World Wars:
Democratized fashion, blurring lines between class and gender
Shifted focus from ornamentation to functionality and utility
Laid the groundwork for ready-to-wear markets
Empowered women to embrace comfort, practicality, and self-expression
Trench coats, wide-legged trousers, skirt suits, military boots, structured jackets, and utilitarian accessories—all now considered timeless—have their origins in wartime needs and ingenuity.
Conclusion: Fashion as Survival and Expression
In the face of scarcity and destruction, people turned to clothing not just for coverage but for comfort, identity, and defiance. The wars stripped fashion to its essentials, but that very constraint gave rise to revolutionary designs and trends. Whether in the form of a crisp military-inspired jacket or a patchwork dress born of necessity, the echoes of WWI and WWII remain woven into the fabric of contemporary style.
Far from frivolous, fashion in wartime proved to be one of the most enduring expressions of adaptation, resistance, and renewal. The legacy of those years reminds us that what we wear often says just as much about our times as it does about ourselves.